Panino, Panini | The Rough Guide to Florence

Now let's get something clear: panino = sandwich, singular and panini = sandwiches, plural.  Get this distinction right and you won't be laughed at when you order these simple yet ridiculously flavorful handheld feasts.  If you thought you had it great at Subway or your local delicatessen, prepare to be blown away.  It's really no surprise, the Italians do everything better, even sandwiches.  Fresh baked pane or bread pressed to perfection holds together between the crunchy goodness a plethora of savory, salty, and flavorful fillings that will be harder to choose from than your senior prom dress.  Panini are the perfect lunch to combat the hunger you will work up after pounding the cobblestone streets all day, darting in and out of the cyclists and people.    

A Pino's panino, photo courtesy of travelblog.org

Like usual, click the colored name of the place to pull up the Google Map! 

Salumeria Verdi - Pino’s Sandwiches

Via Giuseppe Verdi, 36r

Pino’s is a place you have to visit, not just for the panini but also for Pino himself.  A short walk from the Duomo and close to Santa Croce you’ll stumble upon Pino’s where you can have yourself some amazing food. There is almost always a line out the door but you barely notice the wait as your eyes feast over the menu of already perfectly curated panino selections or if that’s not your thing, the overflowing cases of ingredients in which you can stuff into perfectly toasted pane (bread).  Pino himself is a loud and happy man who greets everyone like a friend, even remembering you and your order if you come often enough.  Ask him his favorites and he’ll create a panino I promise you will love and crave for days and in my case, months later.  And it’s not just sandwiches that is served at Pino’s. They always have smaller antipasto (appetizer)  type dishes to go along with your panino as well as a delicious selection of pastas.  My favorite was their pasta con tartufo or pasta with truffle when truffle season kicked into high gear in Firenze.  The clientele is made up of lots of students but don’t let that deter you from picking up a great meal.  

Antica Sosta degli Aldobrandini

Piazza Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 5/6r

Also known as the "Student Discount Place" by Lorenzo de' Medici students, this corner stop is rustic yet very satisfying and if you couldn't tell by the nickname also a place that won't hurt the wallet.  Antica Sosta degli Aldobrandini is a small stop right at the corner of Via Faenza near many of the buildings that LdM holds classes during the week as well as a lot of student apartments.  They have a pre-set panino menu that you can order off of or you can create your own masterpiece a la Subway but with waaay more amazing filling options.  For about €3,50 you can create your own 5 ingredient panino.  My go-to panino was always brie formaggio (cheese), tacchino (turkey), salame, pesto, and if I wanted something with a bit of sweetness pera (pear) or pomodori secchi sott'olio (sundried tomatoes in oil).  You can have it in restaurant or as take-away if you're running from class to class.  If you dine in there are many more options.  They offer an assortment of salads which come in huge bowls as well as a pretty descent apertivi spread come evening time.

Tip: Coffee to-go is a completely American concept.  You're better off not asking at a bar if you can have your coffee to-go unless you absolutely, positively know they offer this service as coffee drinking is a very important Italian cultural past time.  Antica Sosta degli Aldobrandini DOES offer coffee to-go so rejoice if you're a coffee addict and must have 24/7.

** EXTRA TIP: If you go down Via Faenza a couple of shops after Antica Sosta degli Aldobrandini, on your left you will come across a small taverna and shop that also creates beautifully crafted panini.  It is right across of Antica Gelateria Fiorentina, a great gelateria.  This shop offer a student discount as well and the fixings are amazing, even in my opinion better than Antica Sosta.  However, I found this gem late in my stay and was stupid to not write down the name or take a photo.  There is a quaint cellar eating area in the back of the shop, hidden from the prying, jealous eyes of those who want your panino.  If you do find this place and eat here, please send me the name and a picture of your panino.  Is that weird?  I don't care, it was THAT good.  

Palle D’Oro Trattoria

Via Sant’Antonio

If you want to test your Italian skills and go a little more local, Palle D’Oro is the place. Located around the corner from Mercato Centrale, the trattoria does serve both lunch and dinner plates, but my favorite were the panini served to order. For only €3 or €4, you get a panino stuffed with meats and cheeses on a tasty ciabata roll. They have tons of options and even serve up the Florentine traditional lampredotto. My personal favorite was the speck (cured meat) e brie con rucola (arugula), slightly warmed up to melt the brie. You can either take the panino to go, or sit or stand in the bar area where you will find many locals around 1 o’clock, chatting and eating merrily. I’ve also taken it to-go a few times and sat on the steps of Basilica di San Lorenzo on a nice day to enjoy the delicious and savory lunch. One last thing I love about Palle D’Oro are the owners. The man behind the counter making your panino is always kind and patient, letting you practice your Italian like many won’t, and the woman is always very pleasant as well.

Buon appetito!  Love, Kiyana & Catie

Here is a video of my time in Florence where a trip to Pino's makes an appearance!  The quality isn't the best because I didn't have my settings on HD but to see Pino's skip to 2:42.

Pizza! Pizza! | The Rough Guide to Florence

Me, Aleena, and Erin eating Gusta Pizza on the steps of Santo Spirito

Cibo | Food

Food is arguably the most important thing to indulge in when visiting Italy, or any place in that matter. But Italian food is on a whole other level.  I think I can speak for Catie as well when I say that we both thought we loved Italian food before we came to Florence.  But that love hit a glass ceiling which only getting on a plane to Italy can break through.  You haven’t really eaten Italian food until you’ve eaten in Italy.  Because food is such an important and complex theme in Italy, it only makes sense that we break it down into categories in our guide.

Part I: Pizzaria

Pizza has definitely made the big transition out of Italy and has been embraced whole-heartedly by the rest of the world and for good reason.  A genius blend of dough, sauce, cheese, and basil makes up the basic and classic margherita which other variations then add on to.  A little history for you all: The first pizza margherita was created in honor of the unification of Italy, all its ingredients representing the Italian flag. It was named in honor of Queen Margherita of Savoy after her visit to Naples in 1889.  While practically every little restaurant seems to serve and make pizza, there are definitely a few that stand out from the rest.  

Click the restaurant names for the google map directions and add them to your list when you go to Florence! 

Gusta Pizza

Via Maggio, 46r

Across the Arno and right around the corner of Santo Spirito is this little pizzeria.  Don’t be fooled by its lack of space and almost hole-in-the-wall appearance.  This is probably the most well known pizzeria, at least to the hundreds of students who live and study in Firenze.  My Italian professor in Florence said that it was the students who created the hype and popularity of Gusta.  But despite the student crowd the locals love it too.  There is a great fire oven that pumps out beautiful, perfect pies non-stop.  The menu is limited but also extremely affordable.  The classic margherita is €5 and is larger than the circumference of your face.  There is almost always a line out the door but you will never be disappointed.  My friends and I liked to order our pizzas as take-away (take-out) and eat it on the steps of Santo Spirito.  Nothing better than soaking up the Italian sun, people watching, and eating a great pizza.  Oh, and if you think you’re going to share a pizza with someone think again.  Order your own, even if you think “I can’t possibly eat the entire thing by myself!”. You’re going to eat it all and you’re going to love every minute of it, no regrets.   

Le Campane Ristorante Pizzeria

Borgo la Croce, 87r

Near to our house, Le Campane Ristorante Pizzeria is definitely a local spot.  The area we lived in was very near to the Duomo, about a 10 minute walk, but far enough that rarely any tourists ventured around.  Catie and I ate here with our other friend and housemate Dada one afternoon for lunch and it was delicious.  We always passed by on our way to and from an amazing gelateria in the area and one afternoon we decided to actually stop and eat.  It’s quite spacious with two rooms filled with seating.  In the front you can see the large brick fire oven burning waiting to cook our perfect pizzas. Catie and Dada got massive pizzas, I think they both got spicy sausage on theirs, and I got a gigantic calzone.  These kinds of restaurants are the best places to practice your Italian because you’re surrounded by it.  The waiters speak practically only Italian, you order in Italian, the other customers are local, and the televisions and music playing are all the local Italian stations.  Working up the courage to try your hand at just speaking Italian to the locals can be intimidating but they appreciate it and are patient with you.  Plus, at the end of your meal and you walk out the door you feel full and accomplished.

Tavernetta del Battistero

Via dei Servi, 52r

This restaurant literally popped up halfway through our stay in Florence.  Catie, Dada, and I walked down Via dei Servi almost daily and it took us by surprise and just appeared one day.  The restaurant is very spacious and beautiful but the best part is that it’s very reasonably priced.  The menu is both pizzeria items and typical Italian restaurant with antipasti, primi, secondi, and contorni dishes.  The first time Catie and I ate there we witnessed this petite little old woman get served this massive calzone that was literally bigger than her face.  It was definitely a sight to see.  When my friend Aleena visited me in Florence from her own study abroad semester in Copenhagen with her friend Aly, Dada and I took them there for their first meal.  Pizzas were ordered all around and I ordered the massive calzone.  I was nursing an intense hangover so I wasn’t able to conquer the calzone like I planned but I was still impressed.  Aleena, Aly, and Dada all ordered different pizzas but were very happy with them and we all left happy and full of good food.

Julia Roberts had it dead on in Eat Pray Love. 

The Rough Guide to Florence | Florence

So much Florence, so little time.  I got an awesome ask in my inbox the other day from @flawlessindie asking if I’d give a full blown list of some of the things to do, see, and eat while living and studying abroad in Florence.  While I’m more of the “go out, explore, and stumble across the awesome” kind of traveler, it is nice to have a list on hand of tried and true things from people who have been in your shoes and have been on your budget.  My roommate and great friend, Catie ( metheparadox ), actually came with a Florence Bible that students who had studied abroad in Florence from her school Bentley University in MA had compiled and sent to the students who were going during our semester.  I think this was an awesome thing because each semester students add and update the Bible keeping it current and different viewpoints.  So I’m stealing this idea and wrangling Caite to create our own Rough Guide to Florence: The Things You Want to Know, Didn’t Know You Needed to Know, and Should Know.  The title is a work in progress haha.

Tips on budgeting from a spender. Yes, it can be done. | Florence

When I was wrestling with the "to study abroad or not to study abroad" idea, what it really came down to was money and financing a semester abroad.  My school, like many others I'm guessing, broadcasted that study abroad is affordable and very comparable to what students are already paying for a semester.  This is true, but only if you're already paying for dorming and have a meal plan.  I can't speak for any other state, but here in Hawaii where the cost of living is RIDICULOUS and you can basically buy a 3 bedroom house complete with pool for the price of a 2 bedroom apartment, many in-state students opt to live at home and commute.  I fall into that category.  

To pay for college I work 3 jobs and take out student loans.  I don't know about you, but $17,991 for a semester is not what I call affordable by any means.  After financial aid and scholarships kicked in, what I had to pay was around $10,000.  Still not affordable.  I worked a whole lot to come up with money for my semester and am lucky to have a family who pitched in and helped me come up with the rest of what I needed.  By the time it came down to it, I had a little over $3,000 as spending money for my entire semester.  Considering what many of the other students had as spending money, this was definitely not much.  But it was what I had to work with and any money is better than no money.  

Honestly, I thought $3,000 was surely not going to be much to work with when I got to Florence.  But I soon figured out what was important to me and budgeted accordingly.  I had the time of my life and have absolutely no regrets with the things I got to do.  $3,000 is ABSOLUTELY enough to have a life-changing semester abroad and as a self-proclaimed spender, I feel like I won some kind of contest.  If you feel like you may need some help in the budgeting department, here are some of my tips to stretching a budget and how to get the most out of what you do throw down for.  

1.  Make a list of things you definitely want to come home with.  Once you have this list in mind, go around early on in your semester and price out whatever it is you want and compare the options and quality of the products.  Set aside a sum of money for whatever it is at the highest price (but still reasonable and realistic, I'm serious) for that item.  With the money already aside, you don't have to worry about not having enough money at the end of your trip and you can focus on budgeting for other things.  A good example is Florentine leather goods.  Florence is known for its leather goods so things like bags and wallets will probably be on your list.  Show me a person who wouldn't want a leather bag from Italy and I'll show them the next flight home.  But because the shops and sellers know that people will be shopping for these particular products, you will see a lot of stalls selling the same products.  Take advantage of this and compare.  Take your time on finding the right bag for you which you'll love for years to come.  Don't settle.

2.  It's all about the CASH MONEY.  Cash is still King here in Europe and that is great news for those trying to stay on a strict budget.  Swiping that card can become dangerous, especially when you think it's just for small purchases here and there.  Those small purchases are what add up in the end and knock you on your ass the next time you check your balance.  I took out money from an ATM about every 2 weeks, sometimes 3 if I budgeted extremely well.  Each time I took out €200-250.  Anything less than that seemed pointless because if I had to visit the ATM more often I would be charged the fees for currency conversion and the standard ATM fee.  I kept a second wallet in my room and split up a weeks worth into that for safekeeping.  As the week went on I could visually keep track of how much money I had and what I was spending it on.

*Tip: If you are a member of Bank of America rejoice and take out your money ATM fee-free from BNL d'Italia.  There are many locations of BNL branches near the busiest parts of Florence so there is always one conveniently near you.  I frequented the one right off of Piazza della Repubblica which is hard not to miss in back of the big carrousel and before the Hard Rock Cafe.  Plus, their ATMS are indoors so you feel a little more secure withdrawing money without the hustle and bustle of people on the streets.            

3.  Don't underestimate the power and value of coins!  As Americans, we aren't used to our coin change amounting to anything but food for parking meters and vending machines.  Forget that mentality when you go to any Euro-using country.  They love coins and have exactly 8 them waiting to weigh you down and make you think you have less money than you do.  Two of them are worth €1 and €2 which add up to slices of pizza, glasses of vino, and delicious panini (by the way, singular is panino and plural is panini.  The sooner you remember this the sooner Italians stop snickering at you when you order).  Keep a coin purse in your bag or in your pocket and consistently check to see how much euro you actually have in coin form.  I once paid for an entire meal at a restaurant in €1 and €2 coins and then my drinks at a bar later that night. #WINNING.  Also, take advantage of self-checkout stations at grocery stores like the Coop where you can get rid of smaller coins so you maximize all your money.  If not, save a few to throw in the Trevi when you go to Rome and save some for wells you find in smaller towns.

4.  Take advantage of student discounts.  Many shops and restaurants will have student discounts as you are their biggest customer!  If you don't see them advertising it, ask.  Don't feel bad for asking either.  If you aren't taking advantage of it, you're the only one losing money.  Here are some of my favorite student discounts:

• Il Gatto e La Volpe, Via Ghibellina - This restaurant is popular with the students because they speak English and give a student discount on the menu.  Food is good, they gave delicious house-made flatbread, and the house Chianti is what started the love and obsession Catie, my roommate and amazingly awesome friend, and I have for the wine.
• Antica Sosta degli Aldobrandini, corner of Via Faenza near Basilica di San Lorenzo - Popular with students because it is so near to the buildings and classes of Lorenzo de' Medici.  Subway style build your own panino with up to 5 ingredients runs at €3,50 instead of €5.  They also let you ask for it to-go if you're in a rush to your next class.  
  
• Trattoria Pizzeria Dante, Piazza Nazario Sauro 12r - Located across the Arno, you'll hear people talk about Dante's.  The food is good and you can get free wine with a student ID from your school in Florence but that's about it.  Dante's is notoriously slow and the service is not great.  It is also mad busy so if you do want to brave it, call ahead and make a reservation.  Best of luck.
• Scuola del Cuoio, Via S. Giuseppe 5r - If your school provides an opportunity to go and take a visit and tour to this famed Leather School in the back of Santa Croce, DO IT.  Not only will you be able to see students and masters work and create leather masterpieces, you will be able to shop with a student discount.
• Florence Irish Pub, Via del Melarancio 18r, attached to restaurant Lorenzo de' Medici - Ladies Thursday nights are nights dedicated to you in the form of free shots and champagne with a €4 drink.  Not to mention a bartender who is super friendly and a fun atmosphere.  There are bonuses for the guys too, with a foosball table and darts in the back room.   
•  Small panino shop on Via Faenza, about 2 shops down from Antica Sosta degli Aldobrandini - I'm sorry, I've failed and cannot for the life of me remember the name of this amazing panino shop.  However, I promise you it is easy to find.  It is literally two doors down from the other panino shop and you should see a gelato shop (Antica Gelateria Fiorentina, I believe).  It is a small place but so, so good.  You can even eat down in the little basement where there are barrels set up and twinkling lights.  Fresh and delicious foccachia bread and meats and cheese to delight every tastebud.  Definitely make sure you ask for the student discount though!  And if you do wander over there and have a beautifully made and delicious panino, be sure to tell me the name so I can update this!   

5.  Take advantage of free activities held by your school.  Seems pretty self-explanatory but you'd be surprised at how many people don't take advantage of it.  Every week my school put out a list of new and FREE activities we could sign up for.  My roommate Catie and I attended every free cooking lesson made available with the cooking teacher for our school, Milva, who before teaching cooked at amazing restaurants all over Italy.  We also did wine and cheese tastings, tours of a leather school, a visit to the Museo di Calcio, or Soccer Museum, and much more.  There were hiking excursions, free entry days to the Ferragamo Museum, and so much more.        

There are definitely so many more tips and tricks to saving money abroad but in the end you want realistic tips that you can live by.  I know personally I suck with money because I'm a spender, but these things I could handle and work into my daily routine.  Keeping receipts and logging is another way to keep track of what you are spending but I get too lazy with it.  But hey, if it works for you at home it'll work for you abroad.  Just don't forget to treat yourself once in a while.  Take a night out with your friends and splurge that one time on bistecca or take that weekend trip to Rome.  But if you can't afford a crazy night on the town every other night, speak up to your friends because most likely they're on a budget too and will be happy to just chill on the steps of Santa Croce and wait around for some €1 Secret Bakery.  Oh, what's Secret Bakery?  All in good time my friends, all in good time.  

Photo curtesy of www.savvysugar.com